Gran-in-Waiting: Day 3 in Beijing: The Great Wall

We hit the wall

Today is the Big Day when we climb the Great Wall of China.  Everyone knows about it, but only a few can say they've been! Our driver takes us to Jinshanling, which is about 2 hours drive and not the closest point of access from Beijing, but it does the job because we shake off the crowds.  I hadn't really thought it through, but obviously the wall is built on top of large hills and mountains in order to offer the best vantage point as a border control.  It is possible (for young fit people, and Louise) to walk up to the wall from ground level, but we decide to take the easier and more entertaining option of the cable car, which is just perfect for Poshpackers.  Even in the early morning the cable cars are like saunas and then it is a strenuous scramble to finally get on the wall.    Everything about China comes in large improbabilities and the wall is perhaps the finest example: it is 5000 miles long, bits of it were built as early as 7th century BC, the day we climbed it the temperature was 34°C, the woman selling postcards from one of the turrets popped home for lunch (without using the cable car). 'Our' part of the wall was built to keep the Mongols out of China and even though it is beautifully maintained, the steps are steep and uneven.  I manage 2 turrets before stopping to admire the view and watch the others snake off into the distance.  Alone on the Great Wall, I'm inspired to do a selfie! I sit in the shade of a turret beneath an opening through which a gentle breeze helps to cool me down. I contemplate where I am, feel uplifted by the wonders that mankind have produced and elated to experience this particular one.

Back in Beijing, Sean drops us at a restaurant that specialises in Peking Duck. Surely it must be authentic as we are only Westerners in the restaurant.  We are invited to see rows of ducks roasting over the open coal-fired ovens in the kitchen.  The chef, in full whites, comes to carve at the table: skin, meat and ducks head which is ceremoniously presented to Rich and Ian, and they respectfully eat.  Using my chopsticks I place breast meat, hoisin sauce and cucumber into a pancake, wrap it up and transfer to my mouth without dropping it all in my lap. Delicious.

Sadly, we then have a crisis.  No flipping taxi will take us back to the Hutongs and we end up walking. It's still very hot, the pavements are uber crowded and it takes 2 hours 10 minutes. Thank the lord for Louise's map and Richard's gentle encouragement, because I am shattered and can do no more than put one foot in front of the other. I guess adventure holidays have their ups and downs (and swollen ankles).